The unique Yin – Yang market that meets once a year in Northern Vietnam

The market meets annually on the night of the fourth to the early morning of the fifth day of the Lunar New Year, as part of the local spring festival.

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According to preserved historical records, there was a fierce battle in Bac Ninh province in 43 AD between the two Trung sisters’ troops and those of the Han Dynasty led by General Ma Yuan, resulting in many deaths. After the battle, the relatives of those fallen soldiers would return to the battlefield on the days following the Lunar New Year to pay tribute to their loved ones.

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Over time, people came to believe that the gate of the underworld only opened once a year, on the night of the fourth day of the Lunar New Year into the early morning of the following day, allowing the souls of the departed to visit their living relatives on Earth. Such belief gave rise to the unique the Yin – Yang market, where people gather to honour their ancestors and loved ones, symbolically connecting the living and the dead.

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The market begins to take place on an empty plot of land next to a sacred temple in the area. It is a market unlike any other, with no tents or stalls, and it relies solely on the natural dim light of dusk, without candles.

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At the market, there is no haggling between buyers and sellers, and sellers do not check the payment. In the darkness, one can only see the silhouettes of people moving around, accompanied by hushed whispers. People don't seem concerned with "buying luck and selling misfortune" as in some other markets. Instead, this market is a special occasion for the living to meet the spirits of the deceased, creating a unique and spiritual experience for all those involved.

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The market sells many old and used items, with no haggling involved. In addition, this market also sells ritual offerings and items for the deceased, such as paper money, clothes, and other symbolic items. It’s why it is also referred to as the Yin-Yang Market.

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This year, the local authorities revive the Yin-Yang Market model in order to educate people about the traditional cultural beliefs of the ancient Kinh Bac region.

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This initiative aims to preserve and promote the local customs and spiritual practices, allowing younger generations to better understand the rich heritage of the area.

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Vu Duc Thien, 50, who sells black chickens, a special item at the Yin-Yang Market, shares that in order to buy the chicken, people must line up, purchase a ticket, and then wait for the designated time to receive the poultry.

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“This year, the organizing board has prepared 308 black chickens, which symbolize mystery and spirituality. Only those who are truly lucky will be able to squeeze in and pick a black chicken to take home after the market session,” says Thien.

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Locals and visitors to the Yin-Yang market often burn incense and paper offerings for the deceased, hoping for their peaceful rest in the afterlife.

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Beyond being a marketplace, going to the market is also an occasion for people to honour their ancestors and pray for a peaceful and prosperous new year - one of the most unique cultural practices to enrich the heritage of the Kinh Bac region.