The hard life of toddy palm sugar makers in southern Vietnam

Amid the emerald rice fields of An Quang Huu village in Vinh Long province, towering toddy palms rise like silent giants, sheltering the community below. For the Khmer people there, these palms are more than a cultural symbol - they are a lifeline, providing the main source of income during the dry season.

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At the break of dawn, while dew still clings to the palm leaves, Kim Det, a local resident who has spent more than 20 years living off the craft, begins his day.

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Workers ascend 15–20m tall toddy palms, balancing on narrow platforms. Life on the line is part of the job, yet the harvest must go on.

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Farmers slice into the palm trunk to collect sap into bamboo tubes, a delicate process that determines the sugar’s quality. The bamboo tubes are carefully cleaned and smoked over a clay stove.

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Under the layer of straw smoke, the bamboo tubes are sterilized while infusing the palm sugar with its signature, unmistakable aroma.

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Freshly collected toddy palm sap must be carefully filtered and poured into the cauldron immediately to prevent fermentation.

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Kim Det says the sugar-making process is grueling, stretching from 5 a.m. until 1 or 2 p.m. At the blazing stove, he must constantly tend the fire and stir the sap without pause. On average, each exhausting batch yields around 2kg of rich, golden, fragrant palm sugar.

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An, a longtime sugar maker, shares with enthusiasm that the current toddy palm sugar season fetches prices ranging from VND100,000 to 150,000 per bag.

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Stable prices give local residents added incentive to continue practicing this traditional craft.

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Depending on the method, the toddy palm sugar is either molded into blocks or whipped into fine powder once cooled. The finished product carries a distinctive aroma and a mild, natural sweetness.

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Besides the concentrated sugar, fresh toddy palm sap, with its naturally sweet and refreshing taste, is also a popular drink enjoyed straight from the garden.

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The craft is highly weather-dependent, with toddy palms tapped from November to May on the lunar calendar. Though it is labor-intensive and risky, the craft is not only an economic lifeline but also a cultural heritage of the Khmer community in southern Vietnam.