The new returnees lived in harmony with the locals. In particular, those who had worked for the old administration were re-employed and integrated in the new community. As a reporter, I reported on the grand meeting held in

Ba Dinh Square

to welcome the New Year and the Party Central Committee and Government returning to Hanoi. However, I was most excited waiting for the At Mui lunar New Year, which not long ago I could not imagine I would have celebrated in the capital.

The Nhan Dan (People’s) newspaper was closed for the lunar New Year or Tet. Some young editorial staff stayed in the office building by the banyan tree in

Hang Trong Street

to celebrate Tet. Some of them had regrouped from southern provinces and some others were from northern provinces. However, they wanted to stay to enjoy the first peaceful Tet in the heart of the capital city.

On the last night of the year, we, the young, went to see a film at the Cong Nhan (Worker) cinema, previously known as Eden, which was one of the two biggest movie theatres in Hanoi at that time. As usual, before the film started, the audience enjoyed the golden voice of singers Ngoc Bao, Minh Do and others. The shown film was made in the Soviet Union, entitled, “Making way in the world”, which was full of optimism. After the film ended, New Year’s Eve was drawing near. We went home and visited writer Nguyen Van Bong, who re-grouped from the south. As he was married, he was allotted a room of no more than eight square meters. We wished the couple a happy New Year and took candied ginger and brown tea. After that the young people took more warm clothes and went down the streets to welcome New Year’s Eve.

Suddenly, we heard the loud noises of firecrackers and no more music, which had been blared out from the public-address system for over an hour. Then came a deep silence before the Voice of Vietnam Radio presenter was heard, “The New Year has arrived” while the bell from the Hanoi Cathedral opposite the Nhan Dan editorial office started ringing. The entire city was again alive with firecrackers exploding noisily to welcome spring.

Over VOV radio, President Ho Chi Minh spoke in a warm but firm voice wishing the people a happy New Year. That was the short speech he had read on January 1 at Ba Dinh square, discussing the country’s domestic and external policies. When the first wave of firecrackers subsided, we heard his sonorous voice, “People from the north and south are living under the same roof. They are brothers by birth who cannot be divided”. We, particularly those who had re-grouped from the south were deeply moved by his words. These were the first words we heard in the capital in the New Year.

The Hanoi streets were overcrowded. Many picked buds and young leaves considering them gifts from heaven in the New Year, burned incense and asked for a fortune-telling tablet. People walked up and down the streets in a merry manner. We visited Hang Trong Temple before going by

Bao Khanh Street

to Hoan Kiem (Restored Sword) Lake. Visitors jostled each other to the altar upstairs. Many could not shoulder their way to the altar and had to resign themselves to burning incense downstairs and praying from a distance. Incense smoke was spiralling up making the street fragrant. Many youths climbed up trees to pick buds, scattering leaves along the pavements.

We followed the stream of people through The Huc Bridge to Ngoc Son Temple. The bridge was jammed with people but they all kept order and did not elbow each other. On the bridge, we met writer Nguyen Huy Tuong who was carrying a branch of young leaves, and then poet Minh Giang who re-grouped from the central part of Vietnam. I asked, “Where is your bud?” Minh Giang pointed to the medal on his brand-new army uniform, smiling, “Here it is!” I guessed he was awarded a medal at the end-of-year review.

It seemed that everyone wanted to have a branch with buds, and a fortune-telling card. However, it required patience. We also wanted to ask for a fortune-telling card for fun but could not wait as our eyes were stinging with the thick incense smoke. But two women foreign reporters were very patient listening to the old scholar explaining the card through their interpreters. They laughed and looked carefree while wiping their tears away. I thought the old scholar must be a psychologist as he explained to everyone that in the New Year they would have a good fortune, be in security and good health, and have everything to their liking.

I saw an Indian man wearing a big turban and carrying a branch full of buds. Many people were in their best suit. A well-dressed young man came into the Temple taking out his felt hat. He joined his hands intending to pray. However, his hands were busy with the hat, so he put it on again and then murmured the prayer. It was late at night but many couples still toured around the street by the Lake on the stylish Vespa. A formally dressed husband drove the motorbike carrying his smartly dressed wife carrying a branch of young buds. A shiny black vedette car slowly passed

Dinh Tien Hoang Street

. A woman’s hand carrying a bundle of burning incense stuck out of the window. The wind blew, blazing the incense sticks.

I stopped and talked with a pedicab driver who was patiently waiting for customers at a street corner. He said in the previous New Year’s Eve the streets were also overcrowded by the people who went to the temples and welcomed spring. The French soldiers feared something would happen and tried to dissolve the crowd. At 2 am I returned to my room to write up my diary. I still heard the voice and laughter of young couples who still lingered around.

On the first day of the first lunar month I wrote in my notebook, “In the first morning of Tet At Mui (Year of the Goat), the sun is rising in Hanoi. Today is January 24 of the solar year. It is not chilly and drizzling like in my hometown but it is mildly warm. Around Hoan Kiem Lake, on The Huc Bridge and in front of Thap But (Pen Tower), people are taking pictures. They are all smiles and dressed up. It seems the Hanoi streets are showing off their beauty.”

Phan Quang