We arrived in Truong Sa’s biggest island after traveling on board the ship codenamed HQ 996 for one day and two nights from Cam Ranh port in the central province of Khanh Hoa. It was in early April and the sun shined brightly. I felt excited before meeting the border-guards.

Truong Sa archipelago is also called Spratley. As most typhoons originate from this location in the East Sea, it is also called the Stormy archipelago. Truong Sa comprises more than 100 islands, rock fields, sandbars and hidden sandbars. It is in the east-southeastern part of the south-central coast, from latitude 06­­⁰30’’N to 12⁰00’00’’N and from 111⁰30’00’’E to 117⁰30’00’’E, in Vietnam’s territory.

On April 29, Truong Sa will celebrate its 32^nd liberation day anniversary. In the middle of March 1975, the Commando Corps No. 126 which belonged to the Navy High Command was assigned with the task of liberating the remaining southern provinces and on April 6, 1975, the unit received orders from colonel Hoang Huu Thai, deputy Commander of the Navy to attack the Truong Sa islands. The unit wiped out and captured alive all enemy troops and deployed its force to defend the islands. Taking advantage of the victory, the Navy troops launched further attacks and liberated Son Ca and Nam Yet islands. In the following five days, from April 25 to 29, 1975, they liberated the remaining islands of Sinh Ton, Truong Sa and An Bang.

Verdant Truong Sa

The first impression of visitors to Truong Sa is of the luxurious phong ba trees on the coast as if they are protecting the island. Tropical almond trees are also found along the road leading to its center. Thousands of trees of different species have been grown on the island. Cononut, tropical almond and even papaw trees have been adapted to the harsh weather there and developed vigorously. Every year, Truong Sa islanders grow hundreds of trees and they selected 2007 as the year of environment to grow more trees and keep the island green, clean and beautiful

Vegetables can be grown thanks to shade trees which stop the wind and reduce the sun and heat. In 2006, about 60 vegetable gardens were found on the island which produced thousands of tons of vegetables a year. Each soldier had access to nearly 15 kg of vegetables a month. Beds of cabbage, trellises of gourds and melons and flocks of chicken remind us of a peaceful rural village.

The island and the sea are home

After strolling around Truong Sa islands, I met a group of soldiers and officers who were sitting and talking at the foot of an almond tree. I talked with captain Nguyen Xuan Quyen, from Dien Chau district, Nghe An province, who was in the island’s information unit.

Quyen had spent two years on the island. He said despite numerous difficulties and shortages and particularly emotionally needs, he and his team always thought of the islands and the sea as their home. He told me that it was an honour for him and his team to work on Truong Sa islands. They were aware of their responsibility to defend the border islands. In addition to military training, the border-guards also grew vegetables and bred pigs and chickens to improve their daily meals. As fresh water was found in Truong Sa, it was rather favourable to grow vegetables, but only in season. During the windy season, they could eat only bean sprouts.

Truong Sa soldiers listen to VOV broadcasts attentively

Access to Vietnam Television, The Voice of Vietnam Radio and newspapers improved their spiritual life. According to captain Quyen, they celebrated the Tet, New Year Festival with the same food as those on the mainland.

They wanted to send a message to their wives and children and everyone on the mainland that they received much care and support from the Party, the State and the Navy and they always turned their hearts to them and the mainland.

Private first class, Nguyen Hai Trieu, 20, from Ha Tinh province is in the infantry squad, mobile tank section followed his father to join the navy. He told me that from the second day of Tet, he was cheered up enough to celebrate the New Year festival with traditional food and games.

After 15 months realising his mission on the island, Trieu had been admitted to the Party and at the meeting to celebrate the 32^nd liberation day of the Truong Sa archipelago, he was one of the three soldiers hoisting the military flag to lead the march. 

Da Tay is a hidden sandbar in the Truong Sa archipelago. Extremely harsh weather, big wind and waves, and scattered military posts cause numerous difficulties to the border-guards. However, according to captain Nguyen Xuan Dai, chief of Da Tay island, these characteristics hardened the spirit of soldiers and officers, and unite them in defending the country’s sea territory. Some of them came to work on Da Tay island for the third or even fourth time. This shows their determination as well as the special care of higher levels.

Life on Da Tay and some other small islands is much more difficult. Trees cannot grow on the island and the inhabitants have to plant vegetables on plastic or wooden trays with soil brought from the mainland. In the rainy and stormy season, they have to take them inside to avoid the saline wind. According to captain Dai, the biggest obstacle to hidden sandbars is the shortage of fresh water. Although they have rainwater tanks, they still lack fresh water, particularly during the recent El Nino attack. Fresh water there is considered as precious as blood.

What has impressed me most is that the border-guards there always stand firm like phong ba birch trees which can weather the storm all the year round.